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Venice Restaurants 

Al Gatto Nero Da Ruggero  On the island of Burano.  Our favorite seafood restaurant. We had the big family lunch here in 2013 and returned in 2014. Also ate here in 2017 with Joyce & Joe.

Bistrot De Venise – My favorite restaurant in Venice.  there is a lengthy wine list and “historical” cuisine at this restaurant in a location known for its atmosphere near Piazza San Marco.  Expensive $$$

Osteria La Zucca – This is a fun, hard to find restaurant. La Zucca is in Santa Croce, and you should run across it as you approach the Campo San Giacamo dell’Orio from the Grand Canal.  Almost vegetarian, but there are some meat option.  Worth looking for.

Al Gondolieri – Near the Peggy Guggenheim museum.  Old style Venice with rigid service.   It is not for everyone, but I enjoyed it.  Ate bere again in 2017.  I had the liver and onions with polenta it was very good.  However very touristy vibe tonight.  I will say they get an A for the wines they carry by the glass.

Hostaria Ai Coristi – Seafood restaurant near La Fenice.  Elsa took us there. It was a locals only restaurant that served a great seafood appetizer.

L’Osteria Di Santa Maria – Located in Campo Santa Marina, in the Sestiere of Castello, the oldest Sestiere of the city.  Wonderful dinner in 2017 with Joyce & Joe.  We ate outside and the dishes were artistically prepared and delicious.  We ate the suckling pig and it was one best I ever had. We returned in 2025 and had another enjoyable meal out in the piazza.

Antiche Carampane – This was not easy to find, but well worth it.  This restaurant is a local gem that is on all the best of lists.  We ate here in 2017 with Joyce and Joe.  This is a family run business and they were very welcoming. The food focuses on seafood, but we ate guanciale and manzo and everything was delicious.  They also have an extensive wine list. we returned in 2025 and had a good meal, it was all fish.  I thought the service was spotty and did not enjoy the atmosphere

La Palanca -The is on the Giudecca, 448, great atmosphere in front of the grand canal with outside seating and one of the best views of Venice.  We ate lunch the with Joyce, Joe, Kevin & Jayne in 2017.  Fresh pastas and very affordable wine. We returned in 2025 and had a delicious lunch on the canal.  One of my favorite 

Osteria Da Rioba -In Cannaregio located at Fondamenta della Misericordia 2553 near the Jewish Ghetto. The place gives great attention to detail, characterized by old beams and exposed brick with the typical Venetian floor. We had lunch there in 2017 with Joyce and Joe.  I had homemade pastas with bolognese sauce, Joanne had the agnoletti.   They were both artfully prepared.  Worth another visit.

Ai Mercanti – We ate here for the first time in 2025 and we will return there on our next trip.  We were able to sit outside in the small piazza and the service was very attentive. Trip advisor -Ristorante Ai Mercanti in the heart of Venice between the Rialto Bridge and Piazza San Marco is an upmarket, romantic restaurant in very cool style that enjoys a high-flying gastronomic reputation. 

Il Refettorio -We ate here in 2025. It was suggested by Rita because it was very close to the Scuola Grande di San Rocco.  We had an expensive but well worthwhile lunch. Il Refettorio stands out as a modern Italian restaurant offering an exceptional dining experience that marries contemporary design with classic culinary traditions.

Notes:  If you have a chance have lunch on the Giudecca it is a little quieter and great views of St. Mark’s plaza.  After lunch take the vaporetto one or two stops to San Giorgio Maggiore, don’t go for the church, but pay the 6 Euro to take the elevator to the bell tower.  The view is speculator and there are not too many tourists.

Other Restaurants we have visited:

Ristorante San Trovaso – Near the American Dinesen hotel.  Lovely outside seating area. +39 0415230835

Ca’ Pisani in Dorsoduro near the Accadamia.  We had a real nice lunch there.  Sat outside on a wide strada.

RISTORANTE AL STORICO – on the Isola Della Giudecca. Nice setting.

La Bitta – restaurant known for serving just meat.  We were not impressed. Loud table of college girls, very annoying.

Osteria al Duomo –  on isola Murano, Fondamenta Maschio – nice courtyard.

Ristoteca Oniga -Campo San Barbarba.  Good wine bar with outside seating.  We ate dinner there but food was only fair.

Ristorante Al Covo – in Castello.  Lots of hype.  It was expensive.  Texas woman married to an Italian.  Over priced fancy food.

Il Cantone Storico – Right outside the hotel  We have passed it for years, but there for the first time in 2017.  Nothing Special.

Taverna del Campiello Remer in Cannaregio – worst meal in Venice, but very good cecchetti.

Riviera, Dorsoduro 1473, Venice +39 041-5227621 – need to try

Verona 2014/2019

Ristorante 12 Apostoli –  Best restaurant in Verona and maybe all of Italy.  12 Apostoli gained its name from twelve tradesmen who worked in this area in 1750. People from the city used to call them the “12 Apostoli.”  We returned in 2019 to a different restaurant, same location. It now carries a Michelin Star.  The experience was very nice, but I think the charm of the old restaurant was lost.  We had 4 menu choices and we picked the Sguardi (glances) menu and there were two delicious and separate main courses – sturgeon and  pork belly.  They did an excellent job of matching Italian wines to the various courses.

Trattoria Al Pompiere Best of the 2014 trip.  This is a classic Verona restaurant with delicious slice cured meats to start your meal.  Great selection of wines, and regional food that is prepared authentically and served in non fussy, efficient way. We returned in 2019 and the food was still good, but I felt cramped in the restaurant and it was overly hot.  We had a bit of an uncoordinated meal.  Joanne’s antipasto was the grilled vegetable contorno and seemed out of place.  I had the pork shank (stinco di maiale), and it was the largest shank I have ever seen.  It was good but a little too salty.  

Antica Bottega del Vino – Have eaten their twice and both time were good.  Mauro recommendation. We tried to get in 2019, but I screwed up the reservation.  Since our last time in Verona, the restaurant has really become a hang out for drinking wine.  there were lost of you people in the street outside the restaurant drinking wine.  The inside seemed crowded and noisy to me.

La Taverna di Via Stella – Good experience.  This a recommendation from Adrian.   Hard to find.

Ristorante Greppia – Have eaten here twice.  I would not go back.  Big, loud place where the specialty is bollitto.

Piazzetta    La Piazzetta was recommended to us by our AirBnB host, Georgia, and after we could not get in to Antica Bottega del Vino, we were lucky to find La Piazzetta.  It has very nice outdoor seating and a non smoking outdoor area which was the first I had seen in Italy.  We liked the restaurant so much we ate there twice.  The first night we shared eggplant millefoglie sliced steak.  They had Amorone by the glass and good service.  The second night we went for a light meal, but instead had had Tagliatelle withe mushrooms and black truffles, which was out of this world good.  We then shared a rich plate for fegato (liver) and onions in a wine reduced sauce, which was equally delicious.

Antica Trattoria dall’Amelia  After taking the funicular on Sunday morning to the other side of the Arno we walked along the river to this well reviewed restaurant.  We had Sunday lunch here and were very pleased with the food.  Their specialty is polpette and they were light and tasty accompanied by a salsa verde. We then shared Gnochetti with smoked ricotta in a butter and sage sauce, followed by the candied lemon chicken for the main entree.  It is rare find for us in Italy to eat a well prepared chicken dish.  It was delicious.  We liked the restaurant so much we went back our last night in Verona.  This time we started with codfish version of the polpette which were great, then spaghettone with rabbit ragu and we had the lemon chicken again, because it was that good.

Cafe Monte Baldo –  this was aperitivo and snack place on tyhe 2019 trip.  They have small plates that are sold like the cicchetti in Venice.  They also have dinner service, which we should try next time.

Impero – is the best place for pizza in Verona.  We ate there in 2014 and 2019.  Beautiful setting in the Piazza dei Signori.  Great place to watch people.

 Nearby Verona

Enoteca Della Valapolicella in Fumane, Valpolicella.  Via Osan 45, Fumane

Antica Trattoria Da Bepi in Marano di Valpolicella. Went there after the tour of the Lonardi winery.  Owned by Lonardi’s sister.

de Tarczal – Marano D’Isera.  Winery and restaurant recommended by Doumina.  We stoped on our way to Verona the day we left the Dolomites on the 2019 trip. We met with Elena Dell’Adami and tasted wine, which was ok, but we ere more impressed with the lunch.  I had pasta with Luccio (fish similar to Pike) with Polenta  Gnochette and  Joanne had the Orechetti with broccoli. We enjoyed the lunch.

Trattoria Due Cavallini in Mantova – we had lunch here in 2019, after a trip to the museum outside of town which was the Gonzaga summer residence. We shared Agnoletti in sugo dei pomodori, and  the slicedRoasted Veal. We also tried the Sbrisolona,which originated in Mantova, a crumbly almond cake that can be dipped in chocolate sauce. They serve horse and donkey – so beware.

Verona 2019 trip – we had a very nice AirBnb on a quiet street right outside the Porta Borsari. We had a nice host named Georgia, who was very helpful with local restaurants. She recommended La Piazzetta, where we ate twice, and she also recommended La Molinara, Da Ugo, Osteria Sottoriva (tavern), and Il Ciotolo. Pizza recommendations were; Impero, Leon D’Oro, Du De Cope. Aperitivo recommendatios were Cafe Monte Baldo, Terrazza Al Ponte, and Osteria Bugiardo.

We spent 5 nights in Verona, and as usual it started with some tension as we were looking for the place to park the car out side the zone limitata. We ended up in the Arsenale parking lot, which was a seven minute walk to the apartment. Our second day was a walk on our own to get a feel once afgain for the city. We had lunch at Impero in the Piazza dei Signori, and then met Marta (Douhmina’s guide). We had a good walking tour covering the history and architecture of Verona. We learned about the Porta Borsari the ancient Roman gate built in the first century AD during the imperial age. Porta Dei Borsari was named Porta Dei Borsari because it was the point of tax payment from travelers entering and leaving the city. Dinner that night was at 12 Apostili.

The next day was Sunday and we took the new funicular to the  Castel San Pietro. I cost 1 Euro and takes a little more than a minute to the viewpoint at the top of Colle San Pietro, offering its visitors one of the most wonderful and romantic views over the city. From the panoramic Terrace you can see the Adige river that flows under the Ponte Pietra and the historic centre, with its bell towers and its architecture reflecting every era. After that we walked alond the Adige to Antica Trattoria Dall’Amelia for Sunday lunch. After lunch we explored the Chiesa Di San Fermo Maggiore. It had a wonderfiul wooded roof which looked like the reverse of a boat hull. It was a real thing of beauty and church was interesting 0- 2 levels with interesting art and a good audio tour.

The following day we caught the bus to the train station and got on the train to Padova. We immediately went to the Cappella Degli Scrovegni –

Giovanni Pisano designed three marble sculptures for the altar (The Virgin Mary with Child and Two Angels). However, the chapel became famous because of the magnificent frescoes by Giotto di Bondone, who painted a total of 38 pictures in two years on the inside walls of the Cappella degli Scrovegni. The frescoes by Giotto, which are considered to be precursors of the Renaissance, show scenes of the life of Jesus and the Blessed Virgin Mary. The Last Judgement is depicted above the entrance portal and symbolic representations of virtues and vices adorn the side walls. On the triumphal arch over the altar you can see God, who instructed the archangel Gabriel to announce the birth of Jesus. With his frescos, Giotto broke the prevailing rules of painting and breathed life and a real vitality into his characters.

After a simple lunch (worst meal of the trip) we went to the Basilica of St. Anthony, which has been on my list for a number of years. The 13th century church itself is an incredible sprawl of architectural styles topped by some Byzantine domes. Inside, in addition to the relics, are stunning sculptures by Donatello and a famous 14th century fresco by Giotto. However, most come to venerate St. Anthony, who is the patron saint of lost things, in the hopes he might help them find what they’re looking for.  My grandmother always had a soft spot for St. Anthony and it was moving to be in his final resting place.

The next day we did another road trip, this time taking the car and going to Bardolino on Largo di Garda. It was about 45 minutes away and we had a beautiful sunny day to enjoy a walk and lunch on the water at the Hotel Catullo.

Our time in Verona was relaxed and found there are still parts of the city we need to explore. It is always good to to leave a little something unexplored.

Montepulciano

La Grotta – Sept 2018 we had lunch with Joan, Linda, Rita and Jo form our Italian conversation group here.  .It was one of the best restaurants of the trip. I started with an eggplant flan and had the suckling pig, which was awesome. Joanne had the pici with cherry tomatoes.  The setting is slightly outside of Montepulciano centro.  Loving setting with attentive waiters and an extensive wine list.  We need to go back.

Lucca

Volterra

We visited Florence in 2014, 2015 and 2016.  We stayed a few days in 2014, a week in 2015 ,and two nights 2016.  We stayed at the Santa Maria Novella hotel for all the trips.  Here are some of the restaurants we enjoyed during our stay in Florence. we returned for 3 nights in 2018. Stayed at the Santa Maria Novella hotel room 521. We did an overnight from Rome and Stayed at the Santa Maria Novella room 521.  We had another terrific meal at Buca Lapi, and two lunches at some very local tuscan restaurants -Trattoria Gozzi, and Trattoria Marione.

Ristorante Buca Lapi – Our favorite restaurant in Florence.  It is traditional Florence fare.  There is a heavy emphasis on bistecca. Open kitchen, friendly and professional service.  It is on the expensive side. Via del Trebbio 1r. We eat here every time we are in Florence.  We returned in 2018 and a delightful older waitress who enjoyed the Il Bruciato wine we ordered. We shared 3 plates, starting with the fried zucchini (lightly battered with just enough salt), and then we had the gnocchi in sage butter sauce and finally the roasted lamb, which was great. The waitress brought us a piece of chocolate torta  on the house because she said we picked the right wine.  Love this place.

Ristorante Buca Mario – Another traditional Florence restaurant.  It is a busy place, seats close together.  The steaks are the specialty.  We have the sliced steak here.  Ate there in 2014 and 2015. Less expensive than Buca Lapi. Piazza Ottaviani, 16r.

Ristorante dei Fagoli – Ate here in 2016.  It is a Coral recommendation. It is one of those Italian restaurants you’re always hoping to find. Wood paneled dining rooms, smiling cooks in the kitchen, the day’s specials up on a blackboard. Great service – cash only.  Try the meatballs.

La Cantinetta in Borgo – Restaurant near the Duomo. We ate here twice in 2015. Meat is the specialty, but it is a Wine Spectator selection as well.  Small space on San Lorenzo.

Tamero` Pasta Bar –  Went there with Coral in 2015, and returned in 2016. Great spot in Santo Spirito. Space inside is industrial looking and trendy. They also have an aperitif deal that is very reasonable.   Chef is from Sardinia. Pizza Santo Spirito, 11r.  We had another lunch there in 2018.  It is crowed at lunch time for a good reason, they have price fixe menu that is reasonable. I had the tagliatelle with tomato sauce and pesto – it was great. Joanne had gnochetti with a smoked cheese sauce (too rich for me).

Osteria dei Pazzi – Part of Coral food tour in 2015.  Traditional and reasonably priced Florence fare.  They are a little crazy like the name – there are cute sayings on the wall.  I liked it better than Joanne. Via Dei Lavatori 3r.o

Konnubio – This was a new restaurant we tried in 2018.  The food was great but the service was terrible. We shared meatless Mousaka, cappelletti Osso (Veal stuffed pasta), and a whole Branzino. Wait staff, young and inexperienced.  Would not return.

Trattoria Pandemonio –  A new find for us in 2018.  A little off the beaten path in the alto Arno.  It was a good place for our last meal.  Very much a home style restaurant with traditional dishes.  We shared the pasta alla mamma with meatballs and I had the osso bocca and Joanne had the filetto.  We’ll be back!

La Martinicca – Via del sole 27r. Near hotel.  Small restaurant with little character.  It was not a memorable meal.

Il Santo Bevitore –  Ashlee recommended, but we did not have a good experience here.  Via di Santo Spirito, 64.

Trattoria Sostanza – Typical fare but served with seating at group tables.  It was a bit awkward. Via del Porcellana 25r.

The follow are probably better suited to lunch or a snack. 

Le Volpe e L’Uva – Ashlee recommended. Great wine bar with good salads and small plates.  Near Piti Palace. Via dei Magazzini 2-4r.

Le Mossacce – Ashlee recommended.  Old style restaurant, where all tables are shared.  Daily menu.  It was fun.  Via Del Proconsolo 55r.

Signor Vino – Coral recommendation.  There is a wine shop attached to the restaurant.  There is an outside deck on the Arno with a great view of the Ponte Vecchio.  Worth it for the view.  Via de Bardi 46r.

Trattoria Giovanni – Ate there with Ellen after visiting the Brancacci Chapel in Santa Maria del Carmine. Via Sant’Agostino, 38.

IL Cantinone – Restaurant located in the cellar of the building.  Simple food. Via di Santo Spirito, 6r.

Osteria Zaza – Ashlee recommended.  Can sit outside.  It’s near the indoor mercato. Piazza Del Marcato.

In 2024 we ate at these two very local restaurants serving traditional Florentine fare – Trattoria Sergio Gozzzi and Trattoria Marione.  Both had simple menus and good food.

Fiesole –  Le Reggia degli Etrusci – We ventured to Fiesole for the first time in 2018.  We had to climb a mountain (very steep hillside) to get there. We shared a pasta dish called Paccheri Salsiccia and the filetto. It was great and warrents areturn visit. Service was excellent.

Florence Restaurants

In October 2016 we spent 2 weeks in Rome in an apartment near Piazza Navona. 

We have managed to walk and eat our way through almost every neighborhood in Rome. We traveled there in 2003 (Italy for Real), 2005 (Fortunato Family), 2008 (M&R), 2010, 2013, 2015, 2016, 2018, 2022, 2023 and 2024.

In 2024 we had a cancelled flight from New York that left us sleep deprived, but we rallied quickly.  We stayed for two weeks at Carola’s elegant apartment near Piazza Navona.  We explored all parts of the city on foot and using public transportation and always had enough energy to climb the 50 steps to or apartment at the end of the evening.  We toured the aqueduct park with Pina, toured several churches with Francesca of With Local and had a fabulous cooking lesson with Daniella and her son Francesco.  We found new restaurants and returned to some old favorites.  The tasting menu at Carter Oblio was our favorite place followed closely by Bottega Tredici. We also explored new neighborhoods such as the Quatiere Coppedè, which is situated in the Trieste area of Rome, was designed by Florentine architect Gino Coppedè. The buildings were built in the early twentieth century, and is an amalgamation of wildly diverse styles, ranging from classical, medieval, and gothic to Baroque, Art Decò, and Art Nouveau. 

Favorite Restaurants 2024 in order:

Carter Oblio (new), Bottega Tredici (new), Ditirambo, Giano at Hotel W (new), Roscioli, Il Piperno, Armand, Colline Emiliane, La Fiaschetta (new), Lagana, Osteria dei Cappellari (new), Virginiae, Shell Bistrot (new), Emma

Top Restaurants 2022:

In order , Emiliane, Armando, Ditirambo (new), Piperno, Virginiae, Casa Coppelle, Taverna Agape (new), Nonna Betta, Hostoria Grappolo d’Oro, Lagana (new), Pecorino (new), Lilli, L’Arcangelo. Nonna Betta food was good but outside eating area was overcrowded, L’Arcangelo was just off, and Lilli was a busy night.

Top 10 Restaurants 2018:

Casa Coppelle, Armando al Pantheon, Antico Arco, Il Piperno, Osteria degli Amici, Nona Betta, Virginiae, Hostoria Grappolo d’Oro, Colline Emiliane,  Trattoria Lilli.  

Trattoria Lilli – Enjoyed the neighborhood setting and the classic Roman dishes.  Great service and not expensive.  Primi and secondi plates were limited as was the wine list, but good food.  We love this neighborhood place. In 2018, we enjoyed cheese ravioli with sage and butter.  I had magro maiale with sautéed eggplant and Joanne had roasted veal with potatoes. Piazza Navona neighborhood. In 2022 the restaurant was busy with big parties, and we didn’t have a reservation. Food was very good.  Joanne had roasted veal with potatoes again and I had the fried Polpette.

Colline Emiliane – enjoyed two great meals here.  The restaurant specializes in Cucina Bolognese. The Pappardelle Bolognese was delicious as was the Veal specialty of the house.  Great/friendly service.  In 2022, our best meal.  Strict about reservations now.  Two seatings -we had the early seating.  We started with spinach pie, then shares zucca gnocchi with black truffles (exceptional), and coletto with an emmental cheese sauce. In 2024 we started with mortadella and a chard torta.  We split the lasagna and veal shoulder with a half bottle of Amarone.

Armando al Pantheon – Classic old style restaurant near the Pantheon.  Had a lunch and dinner there in 2016.  Tight for table space, but the food is worth it.  Returned for lunch in 2018 and we split Spaghetti alla Gricia.  The waiter insisted that Joanne try the special – rolled beef in tomato sauce, stuffed with mortadella. It was great. I had veal with truffles and berries (only 3), which was beyond delicious.  In 2022 another fabulous meal.  There was outdoor seating.  We shared eggplant parmigiana appetizer, Spaghetti with black truffles, and saltimbocca.  Love this place.  We went back for lunch in 2024 and shared the all’amatriciana and the saltimbocca.

Nonna Betta – Classic Roman fare in the Jewish Ghetto. The food is simple and very good.  Tried the fried artichokes (carciofi alla giuda), and the deep fried baccala.  We returned for lunch in 2018 on Thursday which is potato gnocchi day in Rome. We started with the fried baccala and a carciofo giudeca.  Both were good, a little better than Il Piperno because of the salt. Joanne had the kosher version of Spaghetti Carbonara, I had the potato gnocchi in lamb sauce. It was delightful.  In 2022 they expanded the seating outdoors which increased the capacity 3x.  There was a drop of in the service, but the food was good.  We shared the appetizer plater and the ragu di Nonna.

Il Piperno – This is an old style restaurant with very professional service in the ghetto.  Great place for Sunday lunch.  We ate there twice in 2016. We returned for Sunday lunch in 2018. It is clearly one of our favorite places. We shared the carciofi alla giudia, then the spaghetti con vongole, and then had spigola.  In 2022 we had our traditional Sunday lunch.  It has become one of our favorite things to do.  We started with the carciofi alla giudia and the baccala, then shared the veal ravioli and sea bass encrusted in potatoes and stuffed with artichokes. In 2024, another lovely Sunday meal. We started with the fried zucchini and the carciofi alla giudia, and shared Veal ravioli in tomato sauce and potato crusted sea bass. Always a wonderful experience at this fine restaurant established in 1963 by the Mazzarella family.

Casa Coppelle – Interesting mix of French and Italian.  Ate there twice in 2016 and thoroughly enjoyed our meals. The dishes were unique and well prepared. Nice wine list and elegant setting in the back.  We returned in 2018 and we were greeted at the door by the French owner who was very gracious. She told us in the future to ask for table 50 or 51. We had a good table with a view of the procession in and out of the kitchen. We started with a delicious contorno of ratatouille, followed by a pasta of stuffed cheese tortellini in a broccoli soup like sauce. We had separate entrees. I had rack of lamb, beyond good and, Joanne had a delicate sea bass in a tomato sauce.  Probably our best dinner in 2018 and quickly becoming our favorite  restaurant in Rome. In 2022 it was a little more upscale.  They offered a la carte or a price fixe meals, we did the a la carte, but next time we will do the price fixe. We shared the foie gras, and I had the veal roast and Joanne had the sea bass with fennel and orange sauce.

L’arcangelo – Classic Roman food in the Prati district.  We had lunch there (there is a 3 course 30E menu), and started with a Suppli and shared 2 of the classic Roman pastas.  Arcangelo’s classic dishes of the cucina romana are the best.  In 2022 they also had outdoor seating. It was a strange meal.  We waited a while for our table and the restaurant was next to a bakery and we were constantly smelling the aroma of the bakery.  I had the veal polpette in a verde sauce and Joanne had the crunchy cod.  Main course was  guanciale di maiale and Joanne had the galena stuffed with chestnuts.  Next time stick with the pastas.   Honestly it was a little disappointing. Now only opened for dinner.

Virginiae –  local trattoria in the Piazza Navona neighborhood.  We ate there twice in 2016 and had the fish special both nights.  The food, service and prices are all good. We returned in 2018 and Joanne and I shared pasta alla gricia to start and I had the coda romana (oxtail), which was awesome. It was an ample helping. Joanne had scottadito, which are baby lamb rib chops. There was a lot of fat and a lot of work. In 2022 after traveling all day and a four hour delay at Seatac, this was our first meal in Italy in 3 years.  We had the identical meal we ate in 2018.  We are consistent.  We went back a second time and shared pappardelle con sugo coda, the I had ossobuco and Joanne had abbacchio al forno.  We returned in 2024 a little sleep deprived, but enjoyed a half portion of carbonara, coda alla vaccinara, and ossobuco. One of our favorite places.

Il Gabriello – Nice restaurant, but it was a little disappointing.  Close tables and low ceiling, did not add to the overall meal.  Food was good, service excellent, but not worth a second try.  Near Piazza del Popolo.

Da Francesco – Classic trattoria near Piazza Navona.  This is on several “best lists”.  The food was good, but not special.  We ate outside and in a crowded spot which did not help.  People recommend the pizza.  Maybe next time.

Osteria Degli Amici – 2022 Shut Down!!!

Da Felice – Testaccio neighborhood.  This restaurant is on several “best of Rome” lists.  The food is excellent, the service is excellent, the atmosphere is a little stuffy, but the food is great.

Marco G. – Now relocated near the Esquillino area.

Antico Arco – Best restaurant we have eaten at in Rome.  Unique take on old favorites. On the Janiculum Hill in Trastevere. Expensive but worth it.  Ate there in 2015 as well.  In 2018 we ate there for the 3rd time and the food was great as usual but the service was lacking….slow three-hour meal. Fortunately, we were entertained by 2 couples from NY. We split appetizer, pasta, and main course. We had grilled scallops to start, then tortellini stuffed with sea bass in a pesto sauce (great dish) and finished with lamb chops (which were under done).  I sent an email complaining about the service and received a nice replay with a certificate for a bottle of champagne on our next visit.

Osteria delle Commari – Good restaurant in Pratti.  Recommended by the Roman Food Tour group. Had a nice lunch there. Via Santamaura, 23 .

Da Cesare al Casaletto – In the  Casaletto is a neighborhood.  It is about a 15 minute tram ride from Lago Aargentina – tram number 8.  We finally made it out there in 2018.  It is a restaurant rated by many as one of the best traditional trattorias in Rome. We were not disappointed. We started with fried gnocchi in cheese and black pepper sauce and a piece of the fried baccala. We each had pastas. I had bucatini all’amatriciana and Joanne had a version of that without onions. Excellent!

Hosteria Grappolo d’Ora – Ate in this Cmpo dei Fiori restaurant for the first time in 2018.  We had an eggplant parmigiana appetizer and polpette  bollito with a verde sauce. We each had a secondo, I had sea bass covered with zucchini, it was light, delicate and delicious. Joanne had the home-made sausage with potatoes which was very good.  Returned in 2022.  I was less impressed.  They had outdoor seating and more tables to cover, so I believe the service suffered a bit.  I had the eggplant meatballs as a starter, which was very good and then the roasted lamb which was fair. Joanne had  zucca parmigiana and the spigola encrusted in zucchini.  She enjoyed both.

New in 2022:

Ditirambo – Our guide Pina recommended us here for lunch after our tour of Adrian’s Villa.  They treated us very well.  There was a waitress who spoke to us in Italian and was a fan of Seattle grunge. We shared all the house specials – flan, gnocchi with meat sauce, and guanciale brasata.  We liked the experience and went back for our last dinner in  Rome.  We were not disappointed.  We shared the vegetable melody of eggplant meatballs, broccoli flan and zucchine, then tortoni with fava beans, asparagus and qunaciale, and the secondo was suckling pig w/potatoes.  We ate here with our friend Calra in 2023. In 2024 we returned and our waitress Magdalena was there as well.  Another great meal – we started we complimentary prosecco, shared polpette melanzane, cappellacci di gamberi (like a stuffed agnolotti), quanciale brasata in barbera, and an apple tart for the dolce. Wow!

Taverna Agape – Great restaurant with outdoor space that specializes in seafood.  We shared delicious bruschetta with fresh tomatoes, rigatoni alla coda, and branzino crostata.  Next time skip the pasta and get 2 appetizers and 2 secondi.

Lagana – Right outside our apartment.  We had a nice lunch where we split a calabrese salad, I had spaghetti con vongole and Joanne had the carbonara. It was a nice find and very Italian. We had an amazing dinner there in 2023.  We sat outside and Alessandro Gassman, the star of I Bastardi di Pizzofalcone, was at the next table.  He took photos with the waiters and came to our table to say hello.  In 2024 we were back at our familiar apartment had two dinners there. The dishes we shared were alla gricia pasta, spigola, roman style chicken, sliced steak, and vin santo with cantucci.  We sat in very close proximity to a couple from Sweden and shared the vin santo and cantucci.

Pecorino – Pecorino is right outside the Testaccio market.  The day we went were over crowded and the service was slow, but the food was very good.  We shared grilled veggies, I had cacio e pepe, and Joanne had maltagliata con carciofi.  I would definitely go back.

Casa Manco – In the Testaccio market.  Daniella introduced us to the new hot piazziola in town.  I think it was better than Pizzarium.  Many varieties of toppings and the crust is delicious.

Chiostro Del Bramante – This is an art museum with a great cafe attached to the Santa Maria della Pace church.  We have been there a number of times.  It is a good place for an aperitivo or a quick meal.  We had lunch there one afternoon and I had the hamburger and Joanne had the veggie burger.  It is a quiet spot in the middle of a busy area.

New in 2024:

Roscioli – we finally booked a table there and wondered why we waited so long.  We had a very nice lunch.  We started with mortadella that was sliced razor thin and probably the best I ever had; gricia con tartufi, broccoli pie, and the roscioli bread.  The bread was amazing, and there was enough to take home.

Bottega Tredici – newer restaurant that is on the best of Rome lists.  The restaurant  mixes traditional roman food with some more novel dishes.  We ate there twice and very happy.  We shared antipasti of zucca with raspberry sauce and gnocco stuffed with cheese.  The main course annello brochette and a sliced steak in a delicious sauce.  The second meal was the gnocco and zucca once again, and lamb skewers with pears and a veal cutlet.  We’ll be back.

 Giano at Hotel W – Near the Spanish steps with an advertised business lunch special – 2 course for 22 Euro.  We went on a Saturday and were told it was only during the week.  We stayed and had a delicious but overpriced lunch.  The dishes where stunningly beautiful.  We had Tortello Feste -stuffed ravioli filled with pork morsels, and Pacchero Norma, a deconstructed pasta Norma with the paccheri stuffed with eggplant, cherry tomatoes and ragusano cheese.  Really delicious.  The second time we  were able to take advantage of the lunch special and had the Pacchero Norma again, a chicken salad dish and the cacio e pepe.

Osteria dei Cappellari – Jennifer’s recommendation.  We had a good meal – gnocchi al regù was good, extremely large portion.  Joanne had lemon chicken which she enjoyed.

La Fiaschetta – Carola’s recommendation.  I liked this better that dei Cappellari. I had pasta all’amatriciana and sliced steak. Joanne had the grilled veggies and the spigola.  It’s now on our favorites list.

Carter Oblio – Our best meal in 2024.  We did the 3 course tasting menu, which had a lot of extra small bites.  I remember the carrot appetizer dish as being the best presentation of carrots I ever had.  We paired well selected affordable wines from all over Italy, with our food.  Great service and ambiance in the restaurant.

Shell Liberia Bistrot – we stumbled upon this restaurant after our walk through the Quartiere Coppedè.  We were greeted by the enthusiastic owner who told us we were the first American there in a week.  We had a surprisingly good lunch.  We shared gnocchi with ricotta and manzo, an burrata tortelli in a butter sage sauce.  Hard to imagine we will make it back there, but you never know.

Emma – A very nice restaurant for pizza and pasta.  The used high-end ingredients and the pizza crust was very tasty.

Trionfale market – We ate a porchetta sandwich at Garofolo.  We then went to Pizzarium for pizza (few minutes from the market).  It was fun adventure.

Other places of note:

Cul De Sac – Good food and wine bar.  Ate here again in 2018.

Il Mirraggio – Neighborhood trattoria in Trastevere, along the Via Delle Lungara.  Very local – we had 2 lunches there.  Pasta Fagioli soup!

Enoteca Corsi – Family-owned wine bar.  Drinking wine amongst the family members.  Did not try the food which is suppose to be good.

Dar Poeta – Probably the best pizza place in Trastevere.

Enoteca Buccone – Great food and wine bar near Piazza Popolo. Had lunch there in 2024.

Pizzarium – the best pizza in Rome, maybe?  Bonci is the master pizza maker in Italy. In 2018 we had pizza with potato, spinach with cherry tomatoes, and zucchini and ricotta.  Had a few pieces in 2024 after our porchetta sandwich at the market. Remember it is right at the Cipro metro stop.

Hostaria Costanza – 2018 trip –  Good but not great.

Trevi Fountain area – Hotel Fontana Rooftop – Piazza di Trevi 56

Piazza Navona area – Raphael Hotel Rooftop Largo Febo 2

Roman food tour notes – Prati area -La Pasticceria Sicilliana – Via Cipro 95;  Al Giardino del Gatto e la Volpe – Via Buccari 14; Be.Re & Trapizzino – Via Vespasiano 2; Il Colibri – Via Famagosta 69; Zia Rilla – Via Famagosta 18.