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In June 2025, we embarked on an unforgettable journey to Scotland, guided by the experts from Queen of Clubs. Jennifer had meticulously planned our trip, ensuring we had an incredible experience. Our guide, Kirsty, accompanied us throughout the entire journey, providing us with valuable insights and recommendations.

Our itinerary took us to three diverse destinations across Scotland. Our first stop was the picturesque Loch Lomond, a freshwater loch nestled in the heart of southern Scotland. It’s a part of the renowned Loch Lomond and The Trossachs National Park, surrounded by breathtaking landscapes of rolling hills and lush forests.

We spent a day on a shared boat cruise, exploring the loch’s many islands. We relaxed on the boat, soaking in the stunning scenery and enjoying the tranquility of the water. From our base at Loch Lomond, we ventured to Inveraray Castle, a striking example of Scottish baroque architecture. The castle is steeped in history and folklore, with tales of ghostly apparitions adding to its mystique.

Our tour of Scotland continued with visits to several castles. However, our tour with Kirsty at Stirling Castle truly stood out. Stirling Castle holds immense strategic significance, earning the famous maxim, “He who holds Stirling, holds Scotland.” Perched atop a steep, 250-foot-high volcanic crag known as Castle Hill, the castle is remarkably well-preserved. It offered us a profound sense of its grandeur and historical importance.

We left the Cameron House, setting our sights on the Fife Arms Hotel nestled within the breathtaking Cairngorms National Park. Along the way, we made a stop at the renowned Scone Palace, a historical gem that has witnessed centuries of Scottish royalty, including the infamous Macbeth and the legendary Robert the Bruce.

Upon arriving at the Fife Arms Hotel, we were immediately captivated by its stunning beauty and the harmonious blend of modern art within its antique setting. The hotel’s walls were adorned with over 14,000 artworks, antiques, and commissioned pieces, creating an immersive experience that was truly remarkable. Even a Picasso graced the main sitting room, adding an artistic touch to the opulent ambiance.

From the Fife Arms, we embarked on an adventure into the vast and wild Cairngorms National Park, the largest in the United Kingdom. The park encompasses the majestic Cairngorms mountain range and surrounding hills, offering a diverse array of landscapes that range from towering peaks to ancient pine forests and serene lochs. Along the way, we were treated to picturesque views, charming villages, and majestic castles that added to the allure of our journey.

The highlight of our experience was a guided hike through the ancient Ballochbuie Forest, a protected woodland located on the royal Balmoral Estate within the Cairngorms National Park. We were fortunate enough to have our photographs taken on the footbridge constructed by Queen Victoria, which provided a perfect vantage point to admire the breathtaking Garbh Allt Fall. As the day drew to a close, we completed our exploration by strolling through the grounds of Balmoral Castle, leaving us with unforgettable memories.

Our final destination in Scotland was Edinburgh. On our journey from the Fife Arms, we made a stop in Stirling and visited the magnificent Stirling Castle. Strategically perched on a volcanic crag, the castle offered breathtaking views of the surrounding countryside. In Edinburgh, we stayed at the well-appointed Balmoral Hotel. It was conveniently located in the heart of the city, close to the Miracle Mile, yet far enough away to avoid the crowds.

Our first stop in Edinburgh was Edinburgh Castle. Perched on a towering crag, it is a sight that can be seen from anywhere in the city. The castle’s architecture itself tells a story, with its imposing walls and ancient buildings standing as silent witnesses to centuries of history. As you explore the castle grounds, be sure to take in the stunning views of Edinburgh and its surroundings from the various vantage points.

From our base in Edinburgh, we took a train to St. Andrews. Our first stop was to visit the historic golf course. Then, we ventured into town and strolled along the university grounds and the chapel. We also explored the ruins of St. Andrews Church. This massive Gothic structure, built in 1158, was famously consecrated in 1318 in the presence of King Robert the Bruce. However, it was largely destroyed during the Protestant revolution in 1559. Today, it stands as impressive ruins, a testament to its historical significance.

We also visited the Roslyn Chapel, a Gothic masterpiece adorned with numerous Masonic symbols. It was a place steeped in mystery, as depicted in Dan Brown’s book “The Da Vinci Code.” On the same day, we explored Abbotsford House, the extraordinary residence of Sir Walter Scott, the 19th-century’s best-selling author and a man who played a pivotal role in putting Scotland on the world map. Scott, the creator of the historical fiction genre, penned novels like Rob Roy and Ivanhoe, and composed poems such as The Lady of the Lake. We toured the house, its beautiful gardens, and then strolled along the River Tweed. Edinburgh’s downtown is home to one of its most iconic landmarks: Sir Walter Scott’s statue.

Favorite Edinburgh restaurants – Aizel and Magnum

Located in the quintessentially English village that is Broadway in the heart of the Cotswolds, The Lygon Arms is the perfect spot to switch off and relax. Steeped in over 600 years of history, the hotel has been a host to royalty as well as notable rebellious figures. We spent 4 nights there and enjoyed the charm of the hotel, and Broadway is an ideal Cotswolds town. Our guide was Tony, and he was knowledgeable and fun to tour with. We meandered into towns such as Bibury, Bourton-on-the-Water, Upper and Lower Slaughter, and Stow-on-the-Wold. Each one shared the same golden stones but has its own style and uniqueness.

Hidcote Manor: One of England’s great arts and crafts gardens. Hidcote, a renowned garden created by American horticulturist Major Lawrence Johnston in 1907, boasts an impressive collection of rare trees and shrubs, as well as exceptional herbaceous borders and an eclectic array of plants from around the globe.

Punctuated by charming towns and villages, the Cotswold hills sweep gracefully across the picturesque landscape. Along the way, you’ll encounter cottages adorned with classic thatched roofs, welcoming countryside inns, and rolling fields dotted with sheep and cattle.

Sudeley Castle – Step into centuries of history at Sudeley Castle. Explore the stunning castle and formal gardens. With over 1,000 years of history, there is so much to learn about Sudeley. It’s no secret that it is the only privately owned castle in England to have a queen buried within its grounds – Katherine Parr, the last of Henry VIII’s six wives.

We had some very nice meals, but by far the best was Sunday lunch at the Swan in Broadway. Other restaurants along the way were:

Lygon Grill – at the hotel. It was nothing special.

Childwikam Inn – excellent

Broadway Hotel – very good

Cucina di Amalfi – a rare Italian restaurant in the Cotswalds

We spent a week in France in May 2026 before we started on the Rhine River cruise. We thoroughly enjoyed our 5 days in Lyon and 2 days in Beaune. We once again used Queen of Clubs to plan the trip. We found Lyon to be laidback and friendly. The food was amazing and it well deserves to be called the gastronomic capital of France.

In Lyon, we stayed at the Cour des Loges, which resembles a castle in the city whose decor takes you back to the Italian Renaissance.

We traveled through the picturesque landscapes of Beaujolais, with our guide Alex. We were captivated by the golden lime stones a unique unique to the area, especially evident in our visit to the enchanting village of Oingt, recognized as one of the “Most Beautiful Villages of France”. The highlight of the tour was a visit to Domaine des Prévelières, a family-owned vineyard with a rich winemaking heritage spanning generations.

The next day, we toured the silk-making district of Lyon with Alex and got up close to some working antique looms. That was followed by a morning tour with Claire at the Les Halles – Paul Bocuse food market. Bocuse was a legendary figure in the French culinary scene in Lyon and popular all through France. We also toured the Fourvière: “The Hill That Prays” with Claire. We visited the church of Notre Dame, which is at the highest point of the city and has a beautiful panoramic view. Afterwards, we visited the Roman ruins of the original Roman settlement of Lugdunum, a UNESCO site featuring vast ruins of Roman Baths and a grand Theatre.

In Beaune, we stayed in the centre of Beaune at a Hostellerie Cèdre & Spa. We toured the town, which included a visit to the Dijon mustard factory, and were able to sample a variety of mustard. We also visited the amazing Hospices de Beaune, which was commissioned in 1443 by the Chancellor to the Duke of Burgundy following the Hundred Years’ War. This hospice is a world-renowned example of Northern Renaissance architecture. Its iconic multicolored tiled roofs were an amazing sight.

Our last day in Beaune was a full day that started with a day at the Dijon food market with tastings of Burgundian specialties. Our guide, Jérémie, took us to Halles de Dijon and then on a city tour of Dijon. The highlight of the day was our tour of Burgundy. Jérémie was so knowledgeable of the Burgundy area and anxious to share all the special places only an expert knows.  We had an exceptional lunch at Le Millesime, and our wine tour and tasting at Jean-Claude Boisset were simply beyond my wildest expectations. We drove past the famous vineyards of Romanee Conti and Romanee-Saint-Vivant.

Where we ate!!!

In Lyon – Restaurant at Cour Des Loges – Le Comptoir – the food was excellent.

Cafe Comptoir Abel – excellent Bouchon

Brasserie Roseaux – Are best meal in Lyon. Excellent chicken. A Brasserie is a little more upscale that a Bouchon.

Les Fines Gueules – probably the must fun Bouchon we ate out. Staff was very friendly.

Cinq Mains – More upscale and I was not impressed with the food. They tried too hard.

Bistrot Biondy – very nice lunch spot with a bit of Italian flair.

In Beaunne we ate at:

La Ciboulette – small restaurant serving traditional food.

Rebound – our best meal in Beaune. Small restaurant with a very homey feel and delicious food.

Le Millesime – Excellent lunch in Burgundy

In Basel we ate at:

Fiorentina – great Italian restaurant.

Da Roberto – my namesake and a good place for lunch.

2026 Lyon, Beaune, Basel, Rhine River Cruise, Amsterdam (May-June)

2025 London, Cotswolds, Scotland, Venice, Friuli

2024 New York, Rome, Amsterdam

2023 Rome, Puglia, Madrid, Andalusia

2022 Rome, Ravello, Naples, London

2021 COVID

2020 Argentina – Chile

2019 Utah, Italy – Milan, Dolomites, Verona, Bologna; Amsterdam

2018 Stockholm, Denmark, Norway, Fjords,
Italy – Rome, Orvieto, Spello, Florence; Paris

2017 Italy – Venice, Pesaro, Spello, Parma
Portugal – Lisbon, Porto, Douro Valley

2016 Italy – Rome, Lucca, Florence
Spain – San Sebastian

2015 Napa Valley
Italy – Rome, Orvieto, Spello, Volterra, Florence
Amsterdam

2014 Alaska
France – Nice, Provence, Arle, Montpellier, Bordeaux, Paris
Italy – Venice, Lago di Garda, Verona, Alba (truffles), Sicily

2013 Italy – Lake Stressa, Ovada, Cinque Terra, Lucca
Italy – Family Trip – Rome, Orvieto, Tuscany, Venice

2012 Italy – Venice, Verona, Bologna, Genoa, Rapallo, Alba (truffles)
France – Montpellier, La Bra

2011 Spain – Bilbao, Barcelona (with John and Tommy)

2010 Italy – Rome, Pienza, Venice
France – Paris, Montpellier

2008 Italy (w/ Margaret and Richard)
Positano, Sicily, Rome

2007 London (visiting John)

2005 Italy with the Fortunato Family – Lake Como, Cortona, Rome

2003 Italy – with Italy4Real
Lago Maggiore, Verona, Venice, Remini
San Marino, Pisa, Florence, Rome

2002 Alaska

This was our first trip to Naples and it is probably the busiest and grittiest city in Italy. Everywhere you look there is action and people talking in loud voices. Our driver Gino took us directly to the Grand Hotel Santa Lucia from our hotel in Ravello. The hotel is across the street from the Castello dell’Ovo. The location allowed us to take long walks along the sea. Our first walk took us to Sorbillo, one of the iconic Pizza restaurants in Naples and now the world. We started with fritti and then had a great Margherita pizza.

Our next day we had a city tour with our guide Dario, who was entertaining and informative. We started at the National Archeological Museum, which featured many artifacts from Pompeii. We proceeded to the Sansevero to view the amazing sculpture of the Veiled Christ. We ate lunch at another iconic pizza restaurant – Pizzeria Di Matteo. Dario insisted we try the fried pizza which was amazing. It is hard to believe how they can fry the pizza dough and yet get a delicate soft crust. Our second pizza was a pizza gialla, which is probably the best pizza we have ever eaten.

The next day we walked to the Piazza Del Plebiscito and then toured the Royal Palace. Lunch was at the Osteria Della Mattonella. A very small iconic local restaurant specializing in pasta ragu. That evening we did a food tour with Paolo from With Locals. He was a good guide and really gave us a very good prospective of Naples and all of its delicious food. He was even kind enough to give us a lift back to the hotel.

Our last day we revisited the area of the food tour which was slightly past the Spanish Quarter. We went to the Chiesa Del Gesu which was an over the top eaxample of Baroque. Then we past some pleasant quiet time in Chiostro di Santa Chiara.

Naples Restaurants:

Ristorante Dora – driver Gino’s recommendation

Veritas – Katie Parla – excellent

Osteria Della Mattonella – small, local, perfect Napoletano!

Tamdem Ragu – Linda Owen recomendation

Da Ettore – very close to the hotel.

In 2022 we returned to London for the first time since 2008. We stayed at The Stafford Hotel which was right outside of Green Park and a short walk to Buckingham Palace.

Our first full day was October 30 and we did a walking tour with Chris from With Locals, who was a transplanted Canadian and a real history buff. We started at Pimlico Station and ended in Trafalgar Square. He pointed out all the significant landmarks and some of the history associated with each It was very informative He recommended lunch at the Crypt of St Martin and it was a comfortable fun place in the crypt of the church.

The next day October 31 we went to the British Museum in the morning. I was overwhelmed by the line to get into the museum, and once inside it was wall to wall people. I was really looking forward to this visit, but there were just too many people to enjoy it. They even moved the Rosetta Stone to a special exhibit we did not have tickers for. We salvaged our day by having delicious fish and chips at the Ships Tavern.

On November 1 we spent the morning at the Natural History Museum, which was less crowded than the BM and surprising interesting and informative. The giant blue what is visible from every level and the exhibits we well done and informative. Lunch was Italian food at Sale & Pepe. This was another Chris suggestion. So far he suggested all 3 of our lunch spots. We had dinner at La Momma Mia which was features on the Stanley Tucci Italy series. The experience was not very good. There was a nice grandmother there but the food was no where as good as our lunch at Sale & Pepe.

On November 2 we did a self-guided tour of Westminster Abbey. Amazing history and a real treat to just walk through such a monumental landmark. After the Abbey visit we went to the Tate Modern. I was unimpressed with the exhibits. The best part was having lunch in the cafe with a beautiful of the river and St. Paul’s. Really spectacular place for a panoramic view. We walked across the pedestrian bridge after lunch to St. Paul’s, but it was closed due to a fire alarm that was set off.

November 3 was our 43rd anniversary, and we started the day visiting the Tate Briton. It was much more to our taste. There was a big exhibit of costumed figures in the main hall that was very interesting. We had lunch at the museum. Then we took the Uber boat and went up the Thames to the County Hall building to see Agatha Christie’s Witness for the Prosecution. The seating was set up to get a court room experience and the actors performed this classic play very well. Leaving the theater we were treated to a dramatic sunset overlooking Big Ben and Parliament. Anniversary dinner was at Ottolenghi’s restaurant NOPI (North of Piccadilly) in SOHO. It was delicious and perfect capper to our time in London.

In 2025 we returned to London for 3 days before our Cotswolds/Scotland tour began. We stay at the Stafford hotel again. It is clearly our favorite place to stay. We once again meet up with our guide Chris and we did a tour of Roman London. It was very interesting and Chris adds so much color and insight along the way.

During our time we went to the Victoria and Albert Museum, explored the food option at the Borough Market and the Camden Lock Market. We also took a boat ride from the canal at the Camden lock to Little Venice. We also enjoyed Back to the Future at the Adelphi Theatre.

London Restaurants:

Otto’s French Restauarant – it was a nice break from all the Italinan food, but probably not worth a return visit.

Coya -118 Piccadilly. Delicious Peruvian food. Restaurant music was loud which was a big negative. We did have the incredible guacamole, gambas anticuchos, wagyu bun and seabass. I would go again.

Sartoria – Savile Rd – Another Stanley Tucci Italian restaurant. We returned there in 2025 and had a good meal, but the service was somewhat impersonal. Probably will not return.

Sale & Peppe – 9-15 Pavilion Rd. Wonderful Italian food.

Bibi – 42 North Audley St. Set menue of 4 dishes and some surprises. Best Indian food ever! We returned here in 2025 and had an exceptional meal.

NOPI – 21-22 Warwick St. Ottolenghi restaurant that was just fantastic. Roasted carrots, Sweet potato mung beans, twice cooked chicken, and lamb cutlet. Delicious.

In 2025 we ate lunch at Taberna Etrusca (9-11 Bow Churchyard). It was surprisingly good Italian food. Chris suggested the restaurant.

We had dinners at:

The Wolseley (very close to the Stafford).

Satoria and BiBi as mentioned above.

Cicchetti Cove – nice pre-theatre meal in the theatre district.

On Sunday May 14th, we met our guide Angel in Madrid. He will be with us the next 5 days. We take the train together to Sevilla. Sevilla is by far the best-known city in Andalusia. We had a city tour with (?) to the city visiting the unique Reales Alcazares palace and the amazing gardens.  The El Real Alcázar was originally built in 913 as a military fortress on the site of a Visigoth basilica. The Real Alcázar is the oldest palace in Europe still used as a royal residence.

The palace was amazing. It is known for its tile decoration. The two tile types used are majolica and arista tiles. They were mainly of geometric design inspired by arabesque ornamentation. Visually stunning and a lot to take in during one short visit.

After the visit to the Palace we took a slow walk to the Plaza de Espana. This huge, semi-circular building was built in 1928 for the Ibero-American Exhibition of 1929. It incorporates different styles of Spanish architecture and has a canal and four bridges in front of it (you can rent small boats to row the canal). Some call the Plaza “the Venice of Seville”.

Dinner was at the rooftop restaurant Recoveco.

Monday, May 15 – we visit the Royal school of horses in Jerez. We watched the training and learn about the famous dancing horses.  An institution dedicated to the preservation of the equestrian arts, in the Spanish tradition.

We visit Bodegas Tradicion, a famous sherry house in Jerez. We have a personal tour and tasting which was capped off by simply walking through the most impressive personal collect of Spanish art in Spain. Sipping sherry in the company of Velasquez, Goya and El Greco.

We had a very nice lunch at La Carbonara and returned sleepily to the Hotel Gravina. We had a short turnaround before we attended a Flamenco Show.

Tuesday, May 16 – we left the hotel early to head to Cordoba and visit the Medina Azahara. One of the most stunning historical sites in Cordoba.  We pick up our guide the animated Paco. He told us the Medina Azahara was a fortified palace-city on the western outskirts of Córdoba in present-day Spain. Its remains are a major archaeological site today. The city was built in the 10th century by Abd-ar-Rahman III.

After the Medina Azahara we drove directly to Cordoba, where Paco brought us to one of the famous “patios”. There was a traditional festival with the courtyards of the city dressed with flowers the previous week and we had a peek at a typical patios.

Lunch was at Bodegas Campos where we ate some local specialities. After lunch Paco lead the tour of the amazing Mosque-Cathedral of Cordoba. It is a mosque turned cathedral dedicated to the Assumption of the Virgin Mary. It is visually stunning and clearly a work of architectural significance. The Cordoba Mosque stands as an example of a blend in culture and architecture of the east and west. Its architectural design has Islamic art forms uniformly blended with Christian elements.The architectural choices like the double arches, the horseshoe arch with a semi-circular arch atop it, designs with red brick and stone, are some of the key architectural elements that are world-famous.

We stayed the night at the Hotel Casas de la Juderia.

Wednesday, May 17 – we left the hotel early to make the trip to Baena, one of the major olive oil producing areas in Spain. We toured the facility of Nunez de Prado, and we taught about the process of making extra virgin olive oil.

After the tour of the facility we went out to the fields to see an amazing forest of olive tress. It was olive trees as far as the eye could see.

After the field trip we went to a cave where they prepared a very elaborate olive oil tasting for us. It was a little over the top, but the setting was amazing and the cave was dimly lit to not disturb the bats. It was a once in a lifetime experience.

We had a very nice lunch in the village and then went on our way to Granada. We had a heavy rain storm on the way with the temperature dropping 20 degrees in a short time. We survived to go to tapas bar and watch Man City beat Real Madrid. Hotel in Granada was The Aurea Catedral.

Thursday, May 18 – we visit the Alhambra. We met our guide Anna and were prepared to see the crown jewel of our trip. The Alhambra is one of the most famous monuments of Islamic architecture and one of the best-preserved palaces of the historic Islamic world. The name Alhambra, means in “the red” in Arabic, and is probably derived from the reddish color of the tapia, from which the outer walls were built.  Anna explained the palace represents a succession of Muslim rulers, where each tried to make the palace a little better and grander. It was a massive castle constructed over many centuries, it consists of gardens, fortifications, and sumptuous palaces.  The Alhambra became a Christian court in 1492 when the Ferdinand and Isabel conquered the city of Granada.  Thankfully the integrity of the palaces were not compromised.

The Alhambra complex contained numerous other structures, perhaps the most famous of which was the Patio of the Lions (or Courtyard of the Lions). This courtyard was so named for the central fountain, which is surrounded by twelve lions that spewed jets of water.

Other famous structures include the Hall of the Abencerrajes, which has a stalactite ceiling and is a legendary site where a noble family was said to have been murdered, and the Hall of the Ambassadors, a chamber where Islamic emirs (commanders) would negotiate with Christian emissaries.

Friday, May 19th – we head back to Madrid. Our Andalusia adventure comes to a close.

We spent 5 days in Madrid on our 2023 trip before we met up with Angel to tour the sights in Andalusia. The night we checked into the Hotel Wellington, Manchester City was playing Real Madrid in the semi-final of the 2023 Champions League. We watched the second half in the hotel bar and the game ended 1-1. Man City went on to beat Real Madrid. The hotel was situated in a lovely cosmopolitan area. It reminded me of the Upper East Side in NYC. It was also very near the El Retiro park which is a very large park that reminded me of Central Park.

Our first full day we did a city tour with Victor from With Locals. He was a great guide, very knowledgeable about the city and the history of Madrid. He was gracious and talkative and brought us to some historic bars (over 100 years in service) and explained how a short glass of beer came along with a plate of tapas for free, which for the most part were pretty tasty. When our tour ended, Victor set us up with another 100 year + restaurant near the Plaza Mayor – Los Galayos. We had a lovely lunch sitting on the outdoor terrace.

That evening with met our former neighbor Anish at Terracotta; we also met his lovely wife, Carmen, their son, Leo, and his sheepdog, Hanna. It was a great night to reconnect and reminisce.

The next day we ventured out on our own and went back to Plaza Mayor to eat lunch at the Mercado San Miguel, which is home to an amazing array of tapas.

We walked off lunch at in the El Retiro Park. Dinner was a little off the playbook. I had noticed an Italian restaurant near the hotel, Ornella, but was disappointed no one there spoke Italian. The food was passable, but we found better restaurants in the area.

The next day we did a tour of the Museo Prado with a Context Tours guide, Barbara. She was very knowledgeable and friendly. The museum is not too big; we spent 2 or 3 hours and felt we had covered most of it. Barbara took us immediately to Bosch’s Garden of Delights, which is one of the highlights. She also provided background information on Velazquez, El Greco, and Goya. After the museum we searched for a restaurant for lunch and discovered Tabriz, which served delicious Persian food.

After lunch we explored the Botanical garden – Real Jardin Botanico. It was a nice place to walk on a sunny day with lots of shade and plenty to see. Dinner was at Quintin, a hotel suggestion. Although the space was cramped, the food was very good.

Our last day before the trip to Andalusia, we went to Museo Cerralbo, which was the residence of the Marquis of Cerralbo and his family. A surprising place, it is a classic building from the end of the 19th century. The house is perfectly preserved with beautiful ornate interiors, furniture, paintings, Murano glass chandeliers, and an impressive armor collection. Our With Locals guide, Victor, had suggested the visit. After the museum, we texted Victor for a place to eat lunch and once again he was spot on and sent us to Sifoneria. We had some great food and enjoyed the charm of this old time bar.

Our dinner that night was at Pante which was unique experience in true Italian food in the heart of Madrid. It was also a 2-minute walk from our hotel. Pante comes from the volcanic island of Pantelleria, located 70 miles southwest of Sicily and 39 miles northeast of Tunisia. We had a delicious meal and were entertained by the guests at the wedding reception in the backroom.

After we returned from Andalusia, we spent one more night in Madrid before the flight home. We stayed at Roommates Alba which was a 10-minute walk to the Plaza Mayor and certainly had more of a downtown vibe than the Wellington. We made one more trip to the Mercado San Miguel and dinner was at a traditional Madrid restaurant called Capitan Alatriste (Angel’s suggestion). I had a delicious ox meat steak.

Madrid Restaurants:

Terracotta – ate there with Anish

Ornella – Italian, near hotel, but not worth another visit.

Tabriz – Persian restaurant near Museo Prado

Quintin – nice restaurant near the Hotel Wellington. Cramped seating but very lively.

Pante – Sicilian delight across the street from the hotel.

Capitan Alatriste – city center. Very nice place. Lots of tourists during our early dinner.

Los Galayos – near Plaza Mayor

Sifoneria – Victor’s suggestion near Museo Cerralbro.

Bari – was our first stop in Puglia. It was an easy train ride from Rome. Our first day we toured the old town with Eugenio, who was Yelenia’s guide. He was a bit slow and underwhelming. We did taste 2 types of focaccia, which are regional specialties, and got a good perspective of the city.

Matera was a day trip from Bari. We did an ape tour with Vito. We visited the city sites with the major vistas, toured a replica sasso in town, and went out to the countryside to see an original sasso that could date as far back as 2000 years. We had lunch at Bollicine, which was delicious, in a very authentic setting. We saw Massimiliano Gallo, one of the actors in the Italian television shows “Imma Tataranni” and “I Bastardi” walking in town.

Bari restaurants – Al Pescatore – Elizabeth Minchilli recommendation. Fish, Fish, and more Fish.

Giampolo – was recommended by the Dillman staff and was very nice. Best restaurant we ate at in Bari.

Cecchina -another hotel recommendation.

Aperativo place was La Biglietteria – we were there twice.

Dillman Hotel – perfect location, breakfast next door was excellent, and very helpful staff.

Polignano a Mare – We drove from Bari in about 40 minutes and checked into the beautiful San Michele Suite, a lovely boutique hotel that overlooks the famous Polignano beach. The staff were incredible – Monica at the front desk and the lovely Serena who provided the best breakfast in all of Italy.

Polignano a Mare is the birthplace of Domenico Modugno who wrote and sang the popular song “Volare.” The town is full of poetry and his words appear everywhere in town. We stayed 4 nights and unfortunately had rain for 3 days, but that did not hold us back. We did a quick tour of the town with 29-year-old Antonio, who was a little lackluster. He then drove us to Monopoli, where we walked all over the city and spent some time admiring the harbor.

We went to an olive oil tasting at Masseria Il Frantoio which was outside of Ostuni. We learned how to properly taste olive oil, and we were impressed with the overall quality and their marketing spin to adopt a tree for a year. The Masseria was beautiful with countless numbers of olive trees. We then went to Ostuni for lunch before our ape tour of the town. We ate at Porta Nova and probably had one of our best meals of the trip there. After lunch we meet our young energetic ape driver, Antonio.. He was a bit reckless; when it started to rain we were a bit nervous with his ability to stop the ape. This tour was no comparison the ape tour we did in Mattera. Very few memorable sights, which is disappointing because I had heard good things about Ostuni.

We toured Alberobello in the pouring rain and it our worst day weather-wise. We had a nice guide named Anna, but for some reason her husband, Carlo, decided to walk with us. He did not have an umbrella and was soaked. We are still scratching our heads as to why he came. We visited the Trulli village and stopped in one store and a church, but the weather got the better of us.

Restaurants in the Polignano a Mare area:

Antiche Mura – Seafood in Polignano. Lovely setting, we ate there twice.

Osteria Dei Pellegrini – our favorite lunch spot in Polignano. Battered baccala (better than jewish ghetto in Rome), spaghettone with clams and muscles.

L’Archibugio – Polignano – small cramped restaurant but good food and had plenty of meat options. We ate there twice.

Ristorante Porta Nova – in Ostuni. One of our best meals.

Morus – Polignano – all seafood. Entertaining head waiter.

Lecce – We left Polignano a Mare and traveled 75 minutes to get to Lecce. We stayed at the Palazzo De Noha. It’s a boutique hotel with 8 or 9 rooms and the service was incredible. Raffaella at the front desk was incredibly helpful, and would make an excellent tour guide.

We did a rickshaw tour with Anna to get acquainted with Lecce. She brought us to the Il Fornaio bakery, and we had the local treat called rustico. We also meet Yelenia, our trip planner, at the Strada del Vino and enjoyed some food and wine with her.

Our second day we toured with Francesco and made a number of stops along the coast. First stop was Acaya – a miniature, perfectly geometric fort which was inhabited by about 800 people. Then it was on to Roca where there is a picturesque swimming hole. Crystal clear water with the backdrop of the Adriatic Sea. Next we went to Otranto, which has an amazing castle and beautiful basilica, Cattedrale di Santa Maria Annunziata, with the most impressive mosaics on the floor of the church. The scenes include episodes from the Old Testament including a giant tree of life. We finished the tour with a visit to the lighthouse which is the most eastern part of Italy.

We did a day trip to Gallipoli, which is the western part of the heel. It was a lovely town to walk in and we had a nice lunch close to the sea. We also hired a boat one day from Marina di Leuca, the southernmost point of Puglia. This is where the Adriatic Sea and the Ionian Sea meet. Our boat capitan, Selvario, took us up and down the coast of both seas with great viewings of impressive caves, crystal clear waters, and schools of fish. We had a lovely lunch at Ristorante Fedele.

Restaurants in Lecce:

La Cucina di Mamma Elvira

La Pueta – hotel recomendation

Tabisca – hotel recommendation. Great steak cooked on salt slab. Ate there twice.

Gelato – Natale

Ristorante Fedele -in Santa Maria di Leuca

Vico Dei Sotterranei – hotel recommendation, but I did not enjot the meal.

Il Bastione – Gallipoli

Terrazza di Paridiso

In October 2022 we returned to the Amalfi coast since 2008. The weather was fantastic and we stayed in Ravello which is south of Positano and further up the mountain because the coastal towns like Positano and Amalfi have attracted a lot more tourists. The views were spectacular and Ravello is a quaint little town that offers a bit of peace and quiet.

We drove to Ravello from Rome. Our first stop was at the Apicella Winery in Tramonti. We toured the winery and the vineyards which have a unique pergola system using the trunks of chestnut trees to support the vines. We drank their wine and had a delicious lunch.

The following day we rented a boat and traveled up and down the coast. Our captain was Sandro and he was very good about pointing out all the sites on the hills. It was a beautiful day and an experience I will always remember. We circumnavigated Capri and saw the green and the blue grottoes. We pulled into the harbor in Nerano and had a fabulous lunch at Il Cantuccio in Marina del Cantone looking over the sea and the beach. Lunch naturally included Spaghetti Nerano, which we learnedhow to make with Daniella in Rome.

The next day we went into the town of Amalfi and had a guided tour of the town and the Cathedral which was quite impressive. Our guide Michelangelo was fascinated by the remains of St. Andrew which were reportedly brought to Amalfi from Constantinople in 1206 during the Fourth Crusade by Cardinal Peter of Capua. After the tour of the Cathedral we were taken to a lemon grove at the edge of Amalfi and had a nice tour and lunch. Salvatore was the proprietor and a 6th generation caretaker of the groove. The steep slope of the mountain makes this very challenging work.

The next day we left Hotel Rufolo (which was lovely) and we went to Hotel Cimbrone which was situated perfectly to give spectacular views of two sides of the mountain. Cimbrone is one of the top 10 location for wedding in Italy and for good reason. We lunched our first day on the terrace which had amazing vistas. It was a treat for the senses.

Restaurants we ate at:

Mimi Pizzeria & Cucina – good pizza.

Ristorante Vittoria – right outside the door of Hotel Rufolo. We had a slight wine dispute when they opened a bottle of Antinori reserve by mistake. We ate eggplant parmigiana, lamb chops and sea bream. Meet too delightful British tourists who shared our wine

Ristorante Salvatore 1958 – Nice location right outside the tunnel with a local cuisine flair. We had tempura rabbit, gnocchi with braised veal and sea bream with lemon rinds.

Enotavola Risto – very nice lunch shared the caprese salad, raviolo al limone, and polpette della nonna.

Il Cantuccio – Marina del Cantone – Nerano